I hope that all of the membership took the time
to rejuvenate themselves for the coming year.
This is a perfect time to write out that check
for 2005 membership dues.
Send it to our new Treasurer;
Dues are $25 for the year.
Have you noticed that you never seem to have
the right pot for the tree when you need it? Now is the time
to visit your local bonsai supplier and pick up your pots,
wire, and spring soil supplies.
My time as editor of the newsletter has been spent
arranging the articles sent to me by Kathy Powell, Jack Wikle,
and a few other members. Copy and paste commands on the computer
are great, all though I did have an error in the last newsletter,
sorry Jack. Eventually I knew that I would need to write something
concerning bonsai. Last month there was no meeting so no recording
secretary report.
A couple of false starts and the thought came
of how do I or anyone else find or locate information concerning
bonsai. For those whom are computer savvy often they go to
their favorite internet search engine and type in words such
as, indoor bonsai, hit enter, and 91,700 web sites appear
as possible matches to the search. 90% or more as it turns
out don’t even apply to the question.
You read books or magazine articles and each
author has seemingly a different point of view or idea of
the “correct” method or thought on any given bonsai
subject. Hmm, I wonder how many different soil mixes there
are? To add to the collection of information we also have
video media available. There remains the method of trying
something on your own, keep good records, and if it works
keep doing what you did. If not start over and try again.
All of the above have merit and you should take
advantage of all that you can. My choice came from someone
who said; “The best way to learn something is to learn
from the best by being with and around the best.”
Take classes, attend workshops, join a good
bonsai club, and go to as many bonsai demonstrations and displays
as you can. Develop a list of good web sites to visit and
check them out whenever you can. The single most important
for me has been to seek out a good mentor. I often learn more
in 15 minutes from my mentor than I do in 3 hours of reading
and computer searches.
How do you get your bonsai information?
Write or email me with what you feel is the best way to learn
or locate good bonsai information. Email me at
and we will print your comments.
-- all presented in a beautifully fenced enclosure.
I like to think the nice note received this year
My apologies to Jack.
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Jerry Mieslik, now living in Montana , is
a well known AABS life member who has a long time interest
in tropical bonsai. Jerry has published a new book Ficus:
The Exotic Bonsai.
Signed copies of the book are available for $32.25 + $4.70
for shipping. Write to Devonshire Gardens Ltd., 161 Ridge
Run Drive , Whitefish , MT 59937 USA . More information
about the book is also available at www.bonsaihunk.8m.com
Wednesday,
January 26th
Lighting and other environmental factors for indoor bonsai
Pine styling and management: Doug Hawley
Wednesday,
Marc
Japanese Garden and General Design Principles: David Michener
Wednesday,
April 13th
Marco Invernizzi
Thursday,
April 14th
Marco Invernizzi
Wednesday,
April 27th
Bring your own tree
TBD
June 22nd
TBD
27th
TBD
A
TBD
A, A
Annual Show Yew styling and maintainence:
Bruce Baker
Auction
Club Members Family and Guest Potluck Dinner
December - No Membership Meeting
MERRY
CHRISTMAS!!
Call
Bill Heston at (734) 662-8699 if you have any questions
regarding programs.
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2005
AABS EXECUTIVE BOARD
President: Bill Heston (734) 662-8699
VicePresident: Hugh Danville (313) 455-7922
Program Chair: Bill Heston (734) 662-8699
Corresponding Secretary:
Recording Secretary:
Publicity Chair: Bill Cavers (734) 9964508
Treasurer: Joan Wheeler (734) 485-6306
Librarians: Robert Bishop,
Margaret Parker, Madelon Takken
Past President: Roger Gaede (517)-592-2249
Director for 2005: Arnold Wingblad (313) 255-1769
Director 2004: Cyril Grum (734) 995-9828
Show Chair: Hugh Danville (313) 4557922
Pete
Douglas (313) 8678644
AABS
AD HOC COMMITTEES
The AABS President, Bill Heston, is ex-officio member of all
committees except the Nomination Committee.
Auction Chair: TBD
Membership Chair: TBD
Paul
Kulesa
John
Parks
Ways
and Means Chair: John Parks
Web Master: Jarrett Knyal (webmaster@annarborbonsaisociety.org)
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Joan
Wheeler
2295 North Harris
Ypsilanti, MI 48198
(734) 485-6306
email: owheeler5@hotmail.com
Deadline for submissions to the newsletter is
the 5th of the month.
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For
Sale or Wanted
10% of Sales go to AABS Club.
Member Ads are free.
Your Business Card Printed Here
$20 per year.
Contact:
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by Jack Wikle
Notice particularly
the bolded terms in this
article, these are all mile markers that can be
useful in timing the work you do on your bonsai
and in keeping meaningful notes on your work.
Certainly, one of the appeals of growing bonsai
for many of us is the heightened sense of awareness
we experience – closeness to nature and its
cycles -- as we enjoy working with our trees. Even
needle-evergreens, seemingly unchanging to the casual
observer, exhibit a fascinating annual pattern in
their transitions through spring bud swelling, vigorous
shoot extension and eventual dormancy. As witnesses
to life’s ongoing rhythms, we are somehow
comforted by nature’s persistence.
Much of what I say here will be mostly familiar
to some readers. Hopefully, others will be helped
in feeling closer to nature and to their bonsai
and in being more alert to the needs of their trees
and the opportunities they offer.
It is, of course, energy from the sun captured by
photosynthesis -- taking place only in green plants
-- that drives almost all of life’s processes.
The notable exceptions to this are some obscure
bacteria that obtain their energy in other ways.
Simple carbohydrates, the product of photosynthesis,
are both fuel (ultimately oxidized to release energy)
and building materials (ultimately transformed into
a host of more complex compounds) that become the
substance of trees.
The transformation of simple carbohydrates into
plant tissue is just one of many unseen plant processes
having great energy “costs.” As a number
of authors have suggested, carbohydrate can be thought
of as “tree money.” When carbohydrate
expenditures -- this includes fueling routine cell
processes, new construction use, production of defensive
chemicals, and damage control when defenses are
breached – consistently exceed income from
photosynthesis, the tree eventually dies, typically
done in by decay organisms taking advantage of its
weakened condition. On the other hand, when carbohydrate
income exceeds expenditure, reserves are stored
– “banked” if you will –
in living tissues throughout the tree. The tree
consistently accumulating more carbohydrate than
it uses is a thriving tree that can tolerate considerable
adversity.
Even in very warm climates, the annual growth of
some trees is intermittent, but where seasonal climate
change prevails, winter dormancy with no growth
taking place is the common pattern. Be aware that
even in “deep dormancy,”
the living cells of trees are still consuming energy
– the cost of keeping the fire of life going
– although at a much reduced level. A tree
does not come out of dormancy with as much energy
reserve as it had going in.
Interestingly, the deep dormancy
tree is genetically programmed to require a certain
number of hours of cold exposure (as little as four
weeks to as much as three months or so depending
on species) before it can begin growth again. Temperatures
that satisfy this chilling requirement are cold
but not too cold. (Levels about 40 degrees F. are
known to be most effective.)
When a tree’s chilling requirement is met
and days lengthen, the tree enters a state of semi-dormancy
as root growth begins again and top growth is possible
with enough exposure (more than just a day or two)
to warm temperatures. The perceptible swelling of
buds which have been unchanging all winter will
be the first indication the tree is ready to push
out new shoot growth when warmed enough for long
enough. This is the “bud swell stage.”
When the largest buds (programmed to produce the
earliest and most vigorous growth) enlarge to the
point that green tips are evident, a strong “push”
of shoot growth is imminent. It is common for needle-evergreens
to also exhibit a discernable foliage-color change,
going from muted, somewhat rusty-green or yellowish
green to a brighter, more intense, green color about
this time in their cycle. At this “green
tip stage,” new root growth is already
well under way.
The exact timing will vary greatly with the kind
of tree and prevailing temperatures, but green-tip-buds
soon expand enough that the much compressed and
tightly folded tissues they contained have space
to unfurl sufficiently that a tiny leaf (or a pair
of leaves on opposite-leaved trees) can be seen
distinctly. This has been described as “first
leaf stage” in the tree cycle. On
some needle-evergreens, the growth erupting from
the green tipped bud will be seen as a tight cluster
of tiny needles. On the new pine shoot – often
referred to as a pine “candle” –
it will be some days before needles are discernable.
Some American authors have used the terms “pineapple
stage” for the apparently needleless candle
and “porcupine stage” for the candle
with small needles clearly visible.
On the deciduous tree, the new shoot is, at first,
just a leaf or a pair of leaves. This is followed
by another leaf or pair of leaves pushed beyond
the first. Then more and more leaves are produced
farther and farther along on the shoot that seems
to be telescoping outward as it lengthens. Typically,
the largest leaves will be toward the end of the
elongating shoot but not those at the tip which
are still very young. This outward “push”
of new shoot growth can be surprisingly rapid –
almost violent – on some kinds of trees with
several leaves appearing in a few hours on a warm
day and several times that many leaves appearing
in a few days when conditions are favorable.
This “soft shoot stage,”
with a number of leaves out and expanding while
more leaves keep appearing as the shoot lengthens
(shoots limp and needles still very short on needle-evergreens),
seems to be universally considered the most vulnerable
stage in the tree’s annual cycle. It is stored
carbohydrate reserves almost entirely that have
been used in this “new construction,”
and the new solar panels (fresh foliage) have yet
to produce enough carbohydrate to repay their “building
cost.”
Not surprisingly, the tree is genetically programmed
to keep something in the bank, to not use all its
resources in new growth, but reserve levels are
drawn down dramatically reaching an yearly low at
this time in the annual cycle. Interestingly, root
growth normally continues during the soft shoot
stage but at a much diminished rate. Peak top growth
and peak root growth are not simultaneous. In fact
it is typical for any treatment which stimulates
growth of one to limit growth of the other.
As weeks pass and new leaves accumulate -- and all
the while leaf blades keep expanding -- activity
of these new solar panels eventually results in
carbohydrate production that exceeds their construction
costs. New investment is paying off! And, the new
shoots begin thickening and stiffening. As this
maturation of shoots and foliage takes place, new
buds (structures with the potential of producing
future new shoot flushes) become increasingly evident,
at least one at the base of each leaf stem. Buds
along the shoot rather than at its tip are usually
referred to as “lateral buds.” Depending
on species, some of these new buds will eventually
be capable of producing shoots with leaves, some
shoots with flowers, and some shoots bearing both
leaves and flowers.
Some “determinate growth” kinds of trees
are genetically programmed to cease shoot elongation
for the year and form a prominent “terminal
bud” at the shoot tip in late spring or early
summer. Other species just keep adding foliage on
actively elongating shoots until growth is halted
by drought or cold late in the year. And, some kinds
produce intermittent shoot growth when lateral buds
formed earlier in the season, in turn, become active
producing shoots that are branches from the primary
shoot. Yes, branches on the branches in one growing
season. The hardened shoot, no longer elongating,
with leaves (or needles) fully expanded, and with
prominent buds now darkened in color rather than
green and tender, is said to be “mature.”
This “mature shoot stage” may
occur as early as late June on some kinds of trees
and well into September on others.
As shoot hardening progresses and more carbohydrate
is produced than is used in new construction, the
excess is increasingly diverted into trunk thickening
(widening the annual growth ring), into root growth,
and into storage which takes place in almost all
living parts of the tree. On the tree mature enough
to flower and produce seeds (encased in fruits or
nuts of any kind) significant amounts of energy
are consumed in this reproductive growth. Flowering
and fruiting activity typically limits other growth
and reduces buildup of stored carbohydrate reserves.
Incidentally, it has even been proven that retained
pine needles are storage sites for unused carbohydrate.
By the time, shoot elongation and leaf expansion
(or needle lengthening) are essentially complete
and new buds are easily discerned, stored reserves
have been building for some time. However, this
storage activity accelerates rapidly after shoot
growth slows and ceases, typically peaking sometime
in mid to late summer.
While genetic variation makes each species different,
this “matured shoot stage”
is thought to be second only to bud swell stage
in the spring as a good time for collecting, repotting,
heavy wiring, and other high stress work on the
tree. At this time, the healthy tree will have accumulated
enough stored reserves to tolerate the work you
want to do with it and still keep going. Work on
the sluggish tree, one that has been weak and struggling,
should be postponed until it shows definite signs
of recovery and increase in vigor.
In response to shortening day lengths and increasing
cold (and perhaps diminishing light intensity) trees
eventually begin to go dormant in preparation for
cold weather. The “first fall color”
on deciduous trees typically appears about the time
older needles on pines, usually needles produced
the previous season (“two year old”)
or the season before (“three year old”),
suddenly lose their green color and become noticeably
yellow then brown before being discarded. Yes, even
an evergreen sheds older foliage annually. Carbohydrates
and much of its nutrient element accumulation are
moved out of foliage to be discarded, before it
is shed, and moved back for storage in the tree’s
branches, trunk and root system.
From “peak fall color” until leaves
have dropped is a time of opportunity with some
trees and a time of caution with others. Even though
roots will continue to be active until the ground
is deeply frozen, carbohydrate production is greatly
diminished in evergreens and at a standstill in
deciduous trees. Making the tree dip into its stored
reserves to deal with avoidable stress at this time
adds greatly to the normal rigor of winter. As Stanley
Chinn, a very astute bonsai grower said to me years
ago, “The weak tree has barely enough money
to buy food and you are giving it a doctor bill
too.”
Be extra careful with non-native trees, especially
kinds of borderline hardiness, at this season. Often
they don’t read unfamiliar day length changes
and cold exposure signals clearly and may not go
dormant quickly enough to escape significant cold
damage. This is especially true if they are pushed
to continue earlier-season activity by ill-advised
late fertilization, pruning, wiring or unseasonally
high temperatures.
Some tree scientists, most notably Dr. Alex Shigo,
have suggested that the second most vulnerable stage
in a tree’s annual cycle is the first
fall color stage when nutrients are being
drained from leaves and returned to storage in the
rest of the tree. Shigo says we do not understand
completely why this is. We do know that root growth
continues through this period until stopped by cold,
and that work on the top of a tree almost always
inhibits root activity.
After leaf fall, dormancy deepens further, again
in reaction to shortening days and cold exposure.
Yes, exposure to cold, if not too extreme, makes
trees (tops and roots) more cold tolerant. When
dormancy becomes deep enough, the tree, in its minimum
maintenance phase, will not grow again until its
chilling requirement has been met. Then the annual
cycle begins again.
Jack Wikle
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